Diamond Education

A diamond's color has a significant impact on its appearance. With its many prismatic facets, a colorless diamond reflects light into a spectrum of hues, a characteristic often referred to as "fire". The presence of noticeable color in a diamond may reduce its ability to reflect light. Consequently, diamonds with lower color grades will not show the same luminosity and fire as those with higher grades. The most valuable diamonds have little to no detectable color.

At Brilliance, we offer a large assortment of high-quality diamonds in color grades ranging from D (colorless) to M (faint yellow). A majority of our diamonds appear virtually colorless to the naked eye.

Color Scale

The diamond color scale begins at D (colorless) and ends at Z (light yellow or brown). Diamond color is often difficult to discern when a diamond is viewed face up. Therefore, gemologists typically evaluate diamonds facedown against a pure white surface, illuminated by carefully controlled lighting. The diamond is then compared to master stones of predetermined color.

• D (Colorless)

  The highest quality color grade a diamond can receive is a D-color diamond, its extremely rare and emits unrivaled brilliance.

• E (Colorless)

  Contains very minute traces of color. Also a rarity, an E-color graded diamond emits a high level of brilliance and sparkle.

• F (Colorless)

  Minute traces of color can only be detected by a trained gemologist. This is a high-quality color grade.

• G,H (Near Colorless)

  Contains noticeable color only when compared to higher color grades. Appearing colorless to the untrained eye, a G or H color diamond provides an excellent value.

• I,J (Near Colorless)

  Contains slightly detectable color. An I-color or J-color diamond is an excellent value, as it typically appears colorless to the untrained eye.

• K,L,M (Faint Yellow)

  Faint color is noticeable. Even with the presence of color, these grades of diamonds can emit fire and beauty.

Selecting a Color Grade

Color is an important factor to consider when choosing a diamond, as it is noticeable to the unaided eye. Below are some points to keep in mind when selecting a color grade:

Those who prefer a colorless diamond should select a stone in the D-F range with a fluorescence rating of "None" or "Faint".

Near colorless diamonds with a rating between G and J are excellent values, as their color is typically undetectable to the unaided eye. If you are considering a diamond in this color range, a Brilliance diamond and jewelry expert can review the stone to ensure the color cannot be seen with the naked eye.

A near colorless diamond can appear whiter when set in platinum or white gold metals. Yellow gold settings complement diamonds with lower color ratings.

The presence of fluorescence can enhance the visual appeal of a diamond with a lower-color rating in the J through M range. The fluorescence helps to cancel out any faint yellow in the stone, resulting in a colorless appearance.

A common misconception is that only colorless diamonds exude brilliance. In reality, a well-cut diamond can emit fire and beauty even with traces of faint yellow, although the presence of color will decrease the stone's value.

Fluorescence

Fluorescence, the effect ultraviolet (UV) light has on a diamond, is an important consideration when selecting a diamond. When UV light strikes a diamond with fluorescent properties, the stone emits a glow (usually blue) ranging from very faint to quite strong.

Fancy Colored Diamonds

Diamonds that exhibit a color other than light yellow or brown, as well as diamonds that possess a more intense yellow or brown than the 'Z' color rating, are considered "fancy colored". With only one out of ten thousand diamonds possessing a natural color, these types of stones are extremely rare. Depending on the coloration, intensity, and hue of a diamond, color can either detract or enhance its value. Naturally occurring diamond colors include gray, white, blue, yellow, orange, red, green, olive, pink, purple, brown, and black. Red stones are the most rare of the fancy colored diamonds.

Similar to the process for grading colorless diamonds, a diamond's fancy color is graded by comparing it to master stones of predetermined color. Unlike colorless diamonds, fancy colored diamonds are graded face up. The most important factors in determining the value of a naturally colored diamond is the strength of its color. The value of a fancy colored diamond increases with the intensity of the most prominent hue within the stone.

Inclusions found on a diamond can be considered nature's birthmarks, the distinguishing characteristics that make the stone unique. When grading a diamond, the amount of inclusions and blemishes has a direct impact on its clarity and value. Flawless diamonds containing no inclusions are extremely rare and very expensive. A majority of the commercially sold diamonds contains inclusions that are undetectable to the unaided eye.

To ensure a large selection, Brilliance offers diamonds with a range of clarity ratings from FL (Flawless) to I1 (Included). Diamonds with clarity ratings of Si1 or higher are usually eye clean and contain inclusions that are typically undetectable without special magnification.

Clarity Scale

A diamond's clarity rating is based on the size, number, and location of internal and external characteristics. Known as inclusions, internal characteristics include crystals, clouds, and feathers. External characteristics, or surface irregularities, are called blemishes. As most inclusions can't be seen by the naked eye, gemologists use a ten-power (10x) microscope to rate a diamond's clarity.

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  Flawless (FL)

  No inclusions or blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10× magnification.
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  Internally Flawless (IF)

  No inclusions and only blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10× magnification
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  Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1 & VVS2)

  Contains minute inclusions that are extremely difficult to locate under 10x magnification.
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  Very Slightly Included (VS1 & VS2)

  Contains minute inclusions, such as clouds, crystals, or feathers, which are difficult to locate with 10x magnification.
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  Slightly Included (SI1, SI2, & SI3)

  Contains noticeable inclusions under 10x magnification, including clouds, knots, crystals, cavities, and feathers.
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  Included (I1, I2, I3)

  Contains very obvious inclusions that can usually be seen with the naked eye, as well as under 10x magnification. Included diamonds sometimes display poor transparency and lack of brilliance.

Selecting a Clarity Grade

Below are some points to consider when selecting your desired clarity rating:

• Those who desire large carat weights at lower prices may choose diamonds in the I1 to I3 clarity range. Inclusions in these stones are usually noticeable without magnification.
• While still considered high quality, diamonds rated in the VS clarity range will not cost as much as more premium clarities. VS diamonds will contain inclusions that are undetectable to the unaided eye
• Considered by many to be a great value, SI1-SI2 diamonds will contain inclusions that can be detected with magnification, yet are typically undetectable to the unaided eye and do not detract from the beauty of the diamond. If you are considering a diamond with an SI rating, contact a Brilliance diamond and jewelry expert to ensure the inclusions are not visible to the naked eye.
• Those who desire large carat weights at lower prices may choose diamonds in the SI3-I1 clarity range. Inclusions in these stones are usually noticeable without magnification.
• The location of a diamond's inclusions significantly impacts the stone's clarity rating. External and internal characteristics hidden near the side facets of a diamond detract from its beauty less than inclusions and blemishes located in the center of the diamond.

The carat is the standard unit of measurement used to indicate the weight of diamonds and precious gemstones. Since 1913, carat weight has been gauged against the metric system, with one carat equaling 0.2 grams or 0.007 ounces. Carat weight is measured to three decimal points and rounded to the nearest hundredth.

Carat Weight and Price

Mined from deep within the layers of the Earth's crust, most rough diamonds are either too small or too inferior in quality to produce the lustrous, polished products demanded in the fine jewelry market. Consequently, the production of a single, one-carat diamond can require the mining of up to one million rough diamonds. The rarity of larger, high-quality diamonds has resulted in significant price escalations between sizes. For instance, a one-carat diamond can command four to six times more than a half-carat diamond.

Selecting a Carat Weight

Both carat size and quality should be taken into account when selecting a diamond. Below are some points to consider when choosing which carat weight is right for you:

• Diamond pricing is determined by carat weight, and broken down in half-carat increments. Therefore, assuming factors like cut and clarity are equal, a diamond weighing one carat will cost more than a diamond weighing slightly less than one carat.
• While its carat measurement indicates the weight of a diamond, its length and width measurements indicate the actual physical size, or how big the diamond will appear when viewed from above. Diamonds of the same carat weight can vary in size. For example, a one-carat round diamond could measure 5.9 mm in diameter, while another one-carat round diamond could be 6.5 mm wide. Broader diamonds with larger millimeter measurements create greater visual impact.
• The price of a diamond rises as the carat weight increases. If carat weight is the most important factor in your search, consider a diamond with a clarity grade of Slightly Included (SI1-SI3) and a color grade of Near Colorless (G-J).
• The shape of a diamond may impact how the stone appears when viewed from above. Diamond shapes cut at lower depths will have larger lengths and widths. Shapes like oval or marquise will have elongated lengths, resulting in the illusion of a larger size per carat weight.
• When choosing a carat weight, be sure to consider the ring size of the wearer. A one-carat diamond will appear larger on a size-5 finger than it would on a larger hand.
• If you have already chosen a ring setting or have one in mind, you may be restricted to certain diamond shapes and carat ranges.

Carat Origin

The origin of the word -carat- lies in the Mediterranean region, where carob trees have flourished since ancient times. The seeds of the carob tree were once used as units of measurement against which diamonds were weighed. One carob seed is roughly equivalent to one modern carat, the word we use today to describe the weight of diamonds.

In the Far East, diamonds were historically weighed against grains of rice, resulting in the coining of the term 'grainer'. Today, gemologists still quantify the weight of diamonds in grainers. A four-grainer diamond is equal to one carat.

One of the most defining characteristics of a diamond is its cut. While high grades of color, clarity, and carat weight also contribute to a diamond's appeal, it's the cut that determines the symmetry of the stone's facets, its overall proportions, and its ability to reflect light. An expertly cut diamond will achieve high levels of brilliance, sparkle, and durability. Even if a diamond is graded well in other areas, a poor cut can result in a dull, muted effect.

Diamond Cut Description

A diamond's cut is an integral factor in determining its brilliance and fire. Even a flawless diamond will appear dull and muted if the cut is poor. When evaluating the cut of a diamond, there are some core characteristics that should be considered:

Depth & Depth Percentage

A diamond's depth can be determined by measuring the entire stone's height from the table to the culet and is described in millimeters. The depth percentage measures the ratio of the stone's depth (from the table to the culet) to the diamond's total diameter. To learn about the ideal depth percentage for each diamond shape, visit our Diamond Shape page.

Table & Table Percentage

A diamond's table is the largest facet of the stone, comprising the flat surface on the top. The table percentage is the ratio of the width of the diamond's top facet in relation to the width of the entire stone. The right ratio results in a large amount of fire and brilliance. To learn about the ideal table percentage for each diamond shape, visit our Diamond Shape page.

Measurements

Measured in millimeters, the measurements of a diamond's length, width, and height are used to evaluate the symmetry and quality of its cut.

Proportions

A diamond's proportions, a measure of the number and size of facets and its overall length and width, are integral in determining the quality of its cut. When a diamond is cut with the ideal proportions for its shape, it will reflect more light out of the top, resulting in higher levels of fire and brilliance. A poorly cut diamond with incongruous proportions will allow light to escape out the bottom and sides, resulting in a dull, dark appearance.

Crown

A diamond's crown extends from the top of the stone (the 'table') down to the girdle (the widest point of the diamond). Crowns can be comprised of step cut facets or brilliant cut facets.

Girdle

This is the portion of the diamond between the crown and the pavilion, essentially spanning the width of the stone from side to side. The measurement of the girdle represents the perimeter of the diamond. A diamond's girdle can be rough, polished, or faceted, and does not typically affect the quality or appearance of the stone.

Pavilion

Located at the bottom of the diamond, the pavilion is integral to the stone's light reflecting properties. A properly cut pavilion will allow the maximum amount of light to reflect from the surface of the stone. An excessively deep or shallow diamond can cause light to escape out the bottom and sides, reducing its sparkle.

Culet

The smallest facet of a diamond, the culet is located at the very bottom of the stone. If the diamond ends in a point, the diamond grading report will show a value of 'None' for the culet designation. This small facet was originally intended to protect the diamond's pavilion, although today's settings are usually strong enough to render it unnecessary.

Facet/Faceting (Step-cut/brilliant-cut)

With modern diamond-cutting techniques, there are two common methods of cutting facets, each with its own unique light reflection properties:

Step-cut faceting

In this approach, the facets are elongated and placed in rows to simulate a mirrored staircase.

Brilliant-cut faceting

This technique creates triangular-shaped facets that face outwards from the center of the diamond.

Cut & Value

The quality of a diamond's cut has a significant impact on its value. A well-cut stone sacrifices more of the rough diamond during the cutting process, resulting in a higher market value. It will also exhibit better light reflecting properties, exuding greater fire and brilliance. Improperly cut diamonds will have less visual appeal and a decreased value. To ensure the best value, look for a certified diamond with polish and symmetry ratings of 'Good' or better.

Cut & Depth

It's the cut of a diamond that determines how much light is reflected back to the wearer, directly impacting its brilliance and fire. Diamonds are generally categorized into three main types of cuts:

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  Shallow cut

  Although a shallow cut diamond will create the illusion of a larger stone, it allows light to escape out the sides instead of reflecting off the top, creating a lack of brilliance and sparkle.
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  Ideal cut

  If you're seeking a high quality diamond that beautifully reflects light, this is the cut for you. This premier cut style is well-proportioned and carefully angled to achieve a luminous appearance.
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  Deep cut

  This type of cut poorly reflects light, resulting in a dull, muted appearance.

Light's Effect on a Diamond

There are many factors that determine a diamond's brilliance, the most important of which is its ability to reflect light. As a diamond is moved through a light source, tiny flashes will be visible within the stone. Commonly known as sparkle, this is also referred to as scintillation, an effect of the stone's reflection and refraction of light.

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  Reflection

  When light enters the surface of a diamond, a portion of it is reflected back out of the top.
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  Refraction

  The remaining rays of light travel into the center of the diamond and bounce off its internal walls, an effect known as refraction.
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  Dispersion

  As light exits the diamond, dispersion causes the white light to be separated into multiple colors. Some light will escape out the bottom and sides, and some will reflect out of the top of the stone. The light that is reflected is referred to as the 'fire' of the diamond.

Before purchasing a diamond, you should expect to review a copy of its certificate as proof that it has undergone an unbiased, professional examination.

What is a Certificate?

A diamond certificate, also called a diamond grading report, diamond dossier®, or diamond quality document, is a report created by a team of gemologists. The diamond is evaluated, measured, and scrutinized using trained eyes, a jeweler’s loupe, a microscope, and other industry tools. A completed certificate includes an analysis of the diamond’s dimensions, clarity, color, polish, symmetry, and other characteristics. Many round diamonds will also include a cut grade on the report.

Yasini Diamonds are Certified

Yasini offers diamonds graded from a variety of different laboratories these include the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL). These two laboratories are among the most respected laboratories in the diamond industry, and are known for their consistency and unbiased diamond grading systems. Diamonds that are accompanied by these grading reports are the most highly valued in the industry.

View Certificates While Shopping

If you are interested in a specific certified diamond at Yasini, you can view its certificate on our site before purchase. We offer a variety of grading reports and documentation:

• GIA Diamond Grading Report
• GIA Diamond Dossier^®
• AGSL Diamond Quality Document
• GCAL Certificate of Diamond Authenticity
• Yasini Appraisal

If you are interested in a diamond and a certificate is not available for viewing on the site, simply contact a diamond and jewelry consultant at info@Yasini.com or 800-667-2220.

More About Cut

How Does Yasini Grade Diamond Cut?

Yasini uses cut grades provided by GIA and AGSL whenever these are available. Many diamonds graded by the GIA prior to January 1st, 2006 do not have such grading. If a cut grade is not provided by one of these laboratories, Yasini defaults to a proportion system that uses measurements of depth and table to determine the amount of brilliance in a particular diamond’s cut.